Can be applied glaze on latex paint
Paint the clinker facade
Painting the clinker facade: which color will stick on clinker bricks?
Clinker bricks (also clinker bricks, facing bricks, facing bricks or brick slips) are bricks or bricks that are burned at very high temperatures (between 1,100 ° C and 1,300 ° C). By pressing and heating to just below the melting point, the pores close, making the stone very hard and resistant. The DIN 105-4 and EN 771-1 standards define various types of clinker bricks, which differ in terms of their color and the nature of the surface (e.g. rough, smooth, with or without perforation). Real clinker bricks consist only of clay, so they do not contain cement, lime or other binding agents. As a natural, compatible and vapor-permeable (vapor-permeable) wall covering, they are also suitable for interior walls.
Clinker facades are particularly widespread in northern Germany, but in other parts of the country too, many house walls are clinked up during construction or afterwards. Clinker bricks are weatherproof and frost-resistant because virtually no water can penetrate the stone. They also do not have to be painted to protect the surface - painting a clinker facade is usually only used to change or embellish, for example if the homeowner no longer likes the original color. Typically, clinker bricks are red-brown, but depending on the clay mix, they are also available in other earth colors, black, gray or white.
Clinker facades are heat and sound insulating. If the facing bricks are heated by the sun, they also function as natural, free heating. And because the clinker brick facade is impervious to water from the outside, but the other way around it can wick away moisture from the inside to the outside, it contributes to a balanced moisture balance throughout the building.
Buy facade paint for clinker - tips for color selection
In addition to real clinker bricks made of clay, there are also facing bricks made of other materials, e.g. B. from sand-lime brick. If you want to repaint your facade, you should know in advance exactly what material the facing bricks are made of, because only then can you choose the right facade color with certainty.
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First choice: silicate paint
For clinker bricks with the characteristic, slightly rough surface, you make the best choice with a silicate paint. This type of paint is also purely mineral and permeable, so that the favorable properties of the clinker are retained. And in contrast to the mineral lime paint, the paint does not chalk, can withstand any weather and any cleaning and can last for generations without wearing out.
Real silicate paints cannot be bought ready-to-use in the bucket, but must be freshly mixed shortly before processing. You need protective clothing at work because the damp paint is highly alkaline and therefore corrosive. When drying, silicate paint bonds permanently to the substrate through silicification and forms an extremely stable, long-lasting and ecologically sound coating.
If you want a brightly colored, strong color for the clinker facade, this can be a little more difficult. Because silicate paints can only be colored with special mineral pigments, and the choice of colors is not as large as with emulsion paints. Nevertheless, there are very beautiful colors here too. It is best to get advice from a professional beforehand.
If you have never worked with silicate paint, it is advisable to hire a specialist painter to paint the facade in the color of your choice. In order to compare the prices in advance that the craftsmen in your area will open for them, you can also use our free and non-binding quotation service.
Alternatives: silicate dispersion or silicone resin paint
In addition to the mineral, silicate dispersions also contain an organic binder. They are offered ready to use and are easy to work with even by laypeople - similar to the inexpensive emulsion paints for indoor use. On the other hand, the "sticky" part of the dispersion (plastic or synthetic resin dispersion) means that part of the vapor permeability of the substrate is lost. In addition, the color does not bond so firmly to the substrate. For more detailed information, we recommend our article on pure silicate and silicate emulsion paints.
Silicone resin paints are also often used for painting facades. They score with the so-called lotus effect - water and dirt roll off the paint, so that the facade stays beautiful longer and has to be cleaned less often. However, due to its resinous content, this color also restricts the vapor permeability of the substrate. On sanier.de you will also find a comparison of silicate and silicone resin paints as facade paints.
What to do with glazed clinker bricks?
In many houses, not the whole facade is clinkered, but only the base, i.e. the lower part. Glazed clinker bricks are often used here to provide the house wall with a robust and easy-to-clean splash edge. However, even the best paint can hardly adhere to the water-repellent and smooth glaze. Do a quick test: If the sprayed water completely rolls off the (cleaned) surface, the coating will not hold either. If you still want to redesign the facade, you have various options:
- Remove the clinker
Chipping the clinker off the facade is a lot of work, which also creates a heap of rubble that has to be disposed of properly. Nevertheless, it is the safest and most sensible solution for everyone who can no longer see their clinker brick or who want to have it stuck to the facade. Then you can apply a plaster of your choice to the facade and structure and paint (or have it painted) as you wish.
- Make the clinker adhesive with a special primer
With the right primer, almost any surface can now be prepared for almost any new coating. On smooth surfaces, sticky adhesion promoters are required, such as a 2-component epoxy resin primer. After drying, you can apply a silicone resin paint or universal facade paint to it. The previous properties of the clinker surface will be lost forever. And because glazed bricks shouldn't actually be painted over, it's more of an experiment or a temporary solution.
- The clinker "clinker"
In principle, old clinker bricks can be covered with new ones, provided the wall is sufficiently stable. However, you should by no means carry out experiments here, but rather seek advice on site from a specialist who can also carry out this work himself about the possibilities of attaching the new layer to the old one. And of course about the costs - maybe it is not only more sensible, but also cheaper to remove the old clinker and then clean, paint or re-clinker.
Grinding or milling off glazed clinker brick to roughen it for painting is an obvious, but not a good idea. You'd need electric grinding tools with abrasives that are harder than glass and really have to reach every bit of surface with them. That means a lot of effort, noise and dangerous grinding dust. And yet in the end you would only have a previously valuable and now destroyed surface, which you would still see the rough treatment through the layer of paint.
Lacquer is also not a good idea: The lacquer might look nice for one summer, but it wouldn't last - if only because moisture on its way through the stone can remove the lacquer layer over time. This would be less of a problem on a clinker interior wall than on the facade, which has to withstand and tolerate any fluctuations in weather and temperature.
Painting the clinker facade - preparations and tips for implementation
Before painting the clinker, the facade must be cleaned thoroughly. You can either do this yourself with a high-pressure cleaner or hire a specialist company, e.g. B. when scaffolding is required.
The clinker joints must be intact so that the new coat of paint lasts everywhere and looks nice. So check carefully after cleaning - and wherever it crumbles, remove the old mortar with the joint scraper, clean the joint again and then re-grout.
Even with clinker bricks with a rough surface, you don't need a plastic-containing primer - especially not if you want to paint the facade with a pure mineral paint afterwards. The stone is stable enough through the pressing and firing; the surface does not have to be hardened, and if it is more absorbent, it is better to use more high-quality paint instead of extra brushable plastic.
If you are priming, stay “in the system” and use a primer that matches the color. So potash water glass for pure silicate paint, lime primer for lime paint, etc. If deep primer, then at most for plastic dispersions. If in doubt, ask a painter or plasterer - most professional craftsmen are happy to pass on their knowledge and can give do-it-yourselfers a lot of useful tips.
Maybe you like the old clinker wall so much after high-pressure cleaning that you don't even want to repaint it. Then you can treat the stones with a transparent special paint, in order to protect them and keep them beautiful for longer, which does not clog the surface, but rather lines the fine structures. Ask the master painter on site or use our quotation service to send your request to various specialist companies and receive up to three non-binding offers from specialist companies in your area.
Painter, varnisher, plasterer
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